. . . and then there’s a cow
This has become my way of thinking of all the sights and sounds and experiences that are constantly surprising me. I find myself so occupied in the moment that I cannot think about what might be next. So, we’ll be zooming along in a rickshaw, and I’m taking in everything I can, and then I’ll see something that totally takes me—like a cow . . . or a monkey on a leash . . . or a rooster. Sometimes the surprises are horrible glimpses of reality, and I try to see, but the thinking about all this will have to come later. And sometimes the surprises are just the moments when I know I am really here in India.

Making puri
Monday’s priority was the wedding invitations, but first there were errands, everyone going off in different directions. In the kitchen I watched Kaku and Thai making breakfast and asked for a lesson in making puri, so I was rolling one out (a lot like making a baby lefse) and Pallu went crazy with the camera and capturing the event. She wouldn’t let me actually put it into the oil (I might get burned), but she did allow me to flip it. I got so much praise and attention for that—no wonder Pallu is a great teacher. And it tasted pretty good too.

Moving train
The first thing Riddhi showed me about our upcoming trip was a video of women jumping onto a moving train—I have now lived the moment. Riddhi and Veena were onboard, but as usual I was bringing up the rear because I’m always looking at everything—and the train started moving! So, I’m really not sure how I got onboard, but it was exciting! And then there I was surrounded by all these beautiful women in their colorful and gorgeous saris, crowded together, sitting and standing and talking and laughing. It was a wonderful spirit. Lots of stares, not so many smiles, but still there I was.

And then the train station in Bombay, Victoria Terminal (old name), walking walking, realities in every direction. Bombay!

Sleeper train experience #1
Roads and highways are filled with traffic and exhaust fumes and noise. The taxi takes us to the train station down a road that just can’t be the road to the train station—but then we are indeed on a train platform. Coolies bid to carry bags and the luggage cart turns out to make a great seat for the wait. A train pulls in and this amazing scene takes place with men running and diving onto the train as others are rushing to hurl themselves off the train—it’s quite a phenomenal exchanging of space. Trains roll past and pause and then scene is repeated, but not quite so dramatically which is kind of disappointing. But there are indeed people hanging off the sides and riding on top and bracing between cars as the trains roll past.

Our train arrives and our coolie leads the way to our reserved bunks. Riddhi chats up our seatmate, pillows arrive, goodnights are shared and we are rocked all night—until 3:30 AM when it’s time to prepare for departure.

Possibly the best fabric store in the world
Riddhi knows Ahmedabad and where to eat and shop and what to see—she says this is her favorite city in the world and obviously wants us to agree with her. We enter Sanskruti and it takes my breath away—all the handmade quilts and tapestries, the silks and block prints. It’s all just so beautiful—and the colors and patterns. So many choices and all of them good.

We squeeze into a rickshaw, Riddhi, two of her friends, and me—so I’m hanging out of the sides a bit and we are really zooming around a traffic circle . . . and then there’s a cow—really.